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How To- Home Anodizing. Here is a simple overveiw of annodising that i wrote up as a high school metal shop project it provides a basic overveiw of annodising and how to do it. Ryan Key Anodizing. Anodizing is an .

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The anodizing of aluminum is performed by making the part that is to be anodized, the . With electricity applied through the acid from the cathode an oxide layer develops in and on the outer layer of the metal. This outer layer can be formed so that it has a porous quality and the aluminum oxide layer can be dyed in many colors. Basically you are performing electrolysis with water, splitting H2. O up into hydrogen gas and oxygen, however instead of the oxygen being released as a gas it is instantaneously reacting with the aluminum creating a dense layer of aluminum oxide. Aluminum, on exposure to air naturally develops a thin aluminum oxide film that seals the aluminum from further oxidation, unlike steal where the iron oxide flakes off and allows more oxidation to occur.

This oxide layer is thin and poorly adhered to the surface of the aluminum. It adds essentially no protection or surface hardness where as anodizing makes a much thicker oxide coating, up to several thousandths of an inch thick. Because anodizing adds surface hardness, it has permitted aluminum to be used in applications where it wouldn't have been considered before. Infact aluminum oxide is one of the most common abrasive mediums used in sand paper. After anodizing the added depth of the oxide layer improves the aluminum's corrosion resistance, while making cleaning of the surface easier and potentially if the metal is dyed, more attractive. Anodizing is sensitive to the type of alloy.

For example, alloys for die casting have a lot of silicon, which makes it pour and mold well, but it makes anodizing almost impossible. There are several different types of anodizing Type 2 which is what I will explain how to do, type 3 or hard anodizing and Chromic Anodizing. Type 2 is characterized by. All oil, dirt, glass beads, etc, must be removed prior to the anodizing process. This can be done by thorough cleaning with acetone and methanol (or soap however you must be very careful to rinse theroly).

The next step is to etch the parts in a dilute solution of lye (approx 5%) (Na. OH) for 1. 0 to 3. Then desmut part at room temp for 1 to 3 min using an industrial desmut solution if previously etched or alloy calls for it such as (2.

Finaly after rinsing you can now start to anodize the part. You need a solution of 1. H2. SO4 (sulfuric acid). H2. SO4 = 1 part 1. M H2. SO4 per 4 parts water.

You then need a power supply capable of putting out 1. Then you attach your positive lead from the power supply to the piece to be anodized (anode) and the negative lead to a lead sheet or aluminum sheet (The cathode). Then both are suspended in the sulfuric acid. It is best to try and keep the solution as cold as possible without going below 1. Celsius to decrease the rate at which the sulfuric acid reacts with the aluminum oxide and to try and keep the resistance as low as possible across the solution. Also in extreme cases the aluminum may become pitted if the temperature gets too high. Now to set the current density, you should anodize at a current density range of 4 to 1.

Adjusting the acid ratio, cathode size and voltage will affect how much current is drawn during anodizing. Also we need to know how long to anodize the part for, you use the rule of 7. So lets say that the part is .

So you take our constant 7. Then we know that if we have .

Often you can use a simple system with a light in series with the anodizing process to reduce the current running threw the bath if you need to, also the light is a good indicator of when the part is finished because as the part gets closer to being finished the conductivity will decrease and the light will dim. Once the part is finished rinse, rinse and rinse again as even a small amount of acid in the dye can damage the dye and render it unusable. Make sure to only rinse with cold water as hot water will cause the pours in the aluminum oxide to swell and not accept and of the dye. Then Dye part in 1.

Finaly seal the part in 1. Nickel Acetate sealer for 1. Sealing causes the pours in the aluminum oxide to swell trapping the dye inside, as well as making the anodizing harder and more resistant to wear. It changes the film from gamma aluminum oxide a hydrated form called boehmite. Sealing bloom or sealing smut formation is a side effect of the sealing reaction, and it represents the formation of boehmite crystals at the film surface.

It is usually invisible until the surface is dried. On colored work, particularly the darker colors, it appears as a heavy velvety smut layer which is irregular in appearance. Sealing bloom never appears unless sealing has been well performed and constitutes therefore a guarantee of good sealing. This layer can easily be removed and has little effect on the appearance of the part after it is buffed away.

Often after anodizing the part will not be very shinny so if you desire a glossy finish you can buff it until the desired result is achieved. It may be a god idea to keep some vinegar or even dilute sulfuric or hydrochloric acid around so that if you do spill some lye onto yourself you can neutralize it before it can do more damage to you. Acid is actually safer than lye!

Acid you can simply rinse away with lots of water however lye as with most bases is difficult to wash away without neutralizing it. REMEMBER ALWAYS POUR THE ACID INTO THE WATER SLOWLY NEVER POUR THAT WATER INTO THE ACID!!!(OR IT MAY VERY LIKELY SPRAY VIOLENTLY COVERING EVRYTHING WITH CONCENTRATED ACID)Also always wear safety equipment when working with acids or bases (i.